Category Archives: fashion
American Apparel in China
Literally.
I read today in the menswear trade magazine, DNR, that American Apparel is headed to China. They will soon open three stores selling their mostly knitwear collection which will be made where all their stuff is made, Downtown Los Angeles. That’s right, soon they will see a “made in U.S.A.” label in Shanghai. CEO Dov Charney may look (and act) like a porn mogul, but you gotta hand it to a guy that bucks the trend of global outsourcing.
Essay: What Is Fashion?
This is an essay I wrote while attending the Fashion Institute of Technology. I apparently didn’t like the instructor who gave the assignment.
WHAT IS FASHION?
by Monica Neumann
Fashion is yet one more way to control how the mindless millions act and think. It is an outlet for vanity. It is a cause of numerous adolescent heartaches over the years. It is a source for general feelings of ill will worldwide. A small handful of self-proclaimed experts make arbitrary decisions about what colors and silhouettes people will like because they don’t know they can decide for themselves. Money is the root of all evil, and fashion is a branch of that wicked tree.
We need only to look at costume history to see that this is true. When humans first started wearing clothing, it was purely functional. A purely secular view is to say that nomadic tribes didn’t have homes to protect them, so they wore their homes in the form of clothing. Biblically, of course, the first clothing was meant to hide the naughty parts.
It was only when man started seeking beauties and riches and a more far-reaching power that things started getting a little tense. Certain men could go to other lands and bring back things that the folks at home couldn’t, and those certain men would hold these things over their heads. They brought back foreign gems to adorn themselves with, and they brought back dyes. With their rarity in some parts of world, the usage of these dyes became a status symbol. Only citizens of Rome, whose qualifications made them a surprisingly small group, could wear a true toga. And only senators, an even smaller group of men, could wear a red sash, made with those rare dyes.
The expense of dyes and the dying process made colored cloth symbolic of royalty, for they were the only people who could afford them. Time goes by, the middle class rises, and to show this, they start adopting some of the habits of the aristocracy. They wear clothing made of dyed cloth to show they are gaining in importance. Even with this turn of events, a few colors, the most expensive to procure, are still reserved for the kings and queens and princes and dukes, etc.
People developed the habit of dressing to show their importance in their respective cultures. One could see a person walk down the street and know what social class they were in merely by the clothes they were wearing. A perfectly wonderful human being could be reminded of how close to dirt he was by seeing another’s purple robe or red dress.
Our society has talked much of equality. A good human being, some would say, should try their hardest to look at everyone without judgment. Too much of the time, however, clothes get in the way. Fashion is a weight that helps keep too many good people down and lets too many dead fish float to the top.
Spring 1998
Another week of Seattle fashion!
When I was attending the Fashion Institute of Technology ten or so years ago, I didn’t really think much of it. I knew I was learning good, practical knowledge, but the school had a stigma to it that wasn’t quite flattering. It’s only been in the years since receiving my diploma that I’ve been able to appreciate the real quality of that education. Mostly this occurs when I interview potential candidates for employment at my current company. I’ve attained some familiarity with the curricula at the some of the PacNW fashion schools and programs and have discovered they are severely lacking in comparison to that of FIT.
A part of the FIT Menswear curriculum was runway shows. Both years of the program, there were two student-produced shows. Although we were able to hire a choreographer, we had to be involved in all other aspects. For the mid-year show, we were required to make arrangements with designer showrooms to borrow ensembles. For all shows, we ran the model calls and worked backstage as dressers. And we were expected to do it all with professionalism so as not to seem like a “student” show. Outside of school, my classmates and myself did work as dressers for a show put on by one of our colleagues who had gone rogue. My point being, I do have some knowledge of what it takes to pull something like this off.
This is important to know, because it is with this yardstick that I measured the 29 September show mentioned in a previous post. And it is with this same yardstick I measure today. Moving on . . .
Saturday night I was invited to attend Seattle’s first Green Fashion Week finale runway show. Not being aware that this fashion week was going on, I missed all the other scheduled events. The green choices panel discussion could have been interesting to me, so I’m disappointed I didn’t get to that. However, just walking into the hall, I knew right away I would have a different experience from last week. For one thing, Real Networks was involved in the production which I’m sure helped to provide the modern, high-tech overtone to the proceedings.
The show itself started fairly promptly with a quick greeting from Michelle Taylor, founder of the Zella Company who put on the Fashion Week. Mistress of Ceremonies Summer Rayne Oakes made a quick introduction followed by a short video presentation about the purpose of the green fashion week (I think. Sorry, but I sort of zoned out during that portion.). Then the real business began with a dance mix of Jimi Hendrix’s “Foxy Lady.” There were 10 designers/design houses featured. The choreography was essentially flawless and the timing near perfect. There was clever use of lighting and mannequin poses at the start and finish of some of the “scenes”. There was no intermission. There was no musical act. It was just a clean succession of ensembles up and down the runway.
A reception with drinks and hors d’oeuvres followed. I milled around a few minutes before heading out to catch up with some friends for karaoke. (TMI?)
There were only a couple things I thought were lacking Saturday night. One, I had never been to what I think was Elliott Hall at Bell Harbor Convention Center. (I didn’t even know Bell Harbor existed.) I’m sure I wasn’t the only first-timer, and that place is a wee bit confusing. It would have been nice to have some signs posted at the elevators, and other key places, to let us know where to go. Two, there is no specific explanation as to why those particular designers were chosen to be exhibited. A small blurb about each, either in the program or on the website, would be helpful, especially to people like me who are skeptical when anyone claims to be eco-friendly. Perhaps this information was given earlier in the week, but I don’t think it can be assumed that everyone who goes to the finale will have gone to the previous events.
Overall, it was quite well done, and restored my faith that Seattle could put on a “big city” production.
You Have Just Experienced Seattle Fashion Week
In case you didn’t know, Seattle has a Fashion Week. According to the Mistress of Ceremonies at tonight’s finale event, it is one of only thirteen in the U.S. That may have some significance considering Seattle is ranked 23rd in population, but maybe not, also considering the larger cities include Columbus, OH and Detroit, MI. This week lasted four days and was comprised of two runway shows and an art show/auction. Crazy, hot action, I can assure you. I happen to be employed by one of the featured exhibitors, so I was able to attend both runway shows for free (skipped the auction, since that too obviously involved spending money).
Thursday night’s show was held at Neumo’s and featured ensembles from Atsui Tokyo, Moda Europa, Kenneth Cole, and Ed Hardy (perhaps others). The best part of the evening was having drinks, eats, and conversation with a group of friends before, during, and after. The show itself was not that impressive. None of the clothes were really notable, and the production was quite off. Too much time passed between each collection. A couple of these “intermissions” were filled with performances by a local hip hop duo and pop singer April Villanueva.
Saturday night, being the big Finale, I expected something a bit more spectacular. True, the venue was a bit classier, and we were admitted as VIPs, so we got goodie bags. However, the show was just not good. On the runway we saw Atsui Tokyo, Kenneth Cole, Ed Hardy, Road, Arden B., and MNG. Anything ring a bell? They were again plagued by excessive time lag between collections, though not as bad as Thursday. The dj was definitely not the best I’ve ever heard (not even close), and I was really starting to think the MC had suffered a stroke earlier in the day. According to the program, she’s a professional actress, public speaker, voice over artist, and host of live events. (She’s also modeled for Lockheed Martin and the Department of Defense. Wrap your head around that.) She missed cues, mispronounced, had her dress fall open . . . I honestly felt sorry for her. If she’s like that all the time, I wouldn’t expect to hear from the Miss Downtown Kirkland USA again too soon.
Oh, and let me not forget to at least mention the singing act for tonight, Maryline Blackburn – beyond description.
Beyond production values and professionalism, Seattle Fashion Week just missed the mark. My feeling as I was sitting in my plush seat, begging for someone, anyone, to get on with the show, was that Seattle Fashion Week should be about Seattle fashion. Road is designed in Seattle, and Atsui Tokyo and Moda Europa are local shops, but where were the independent Seattle designers? Where were the boutiques from Capitol Hill, Fremont, Ballard, Belltown? I know there is local talent just itching to be shown, so let’s show it.
I thought to myself that I should contact SFW organizers and give them an earful. Convince them they are going about it all wrong, and not even doing a good job at that. But my second thought was, maybe I should just organize something myself. We shall see . . . we shall see . . .
P.S. I have just created a Flickr group for Seattle designers, so join and spread the word!